Fast Fashion Interviews Laura Firby (Soup du Jour)

Laura Firby (Soup du Jour), a burlesque dancer who works in Belfast’s vintage shop The Rusty Zip, has organized the burlesque evening ‘Belfast Tease -O- Rama’ on the 30th of November in The Black Box. 

How did you become interested in burlesque and how did you start?

I started at Leeds University when I was 19. I had never even seen or heard of burlesque before. A friend who knew I was into vintage fashion asked myself and some other girls to perform in a presentation at one of her lectures. All five of us had lots of fun and after the performance we wanted to pursue burlesque dancing properly so we formed a troupe. This meant that we could perform as a group but also do solo acts. After university everyone went their separate ways but I decided to carry on doing it.

The burlesque scene is quite small in Belfast, do you think it is continuing to grow in popularity?

Yes, I do think it is growing; it’s just about forming a community and getting people interested. I’ve lived in Belfast for over a year now. When I go out at night with victory rolls in my hair some women approach me and ask me about my hairstyle. When I say that I do burlesque they often reply ‘I’d love to do that’, but there isn’t a regular evening or established community here yet. There are 20s/40s themed cabaret evenings like Pigeon and Plums and also BelleHoppers that sample a taste of burlesque so it’s definitely getting there! People have this idea that burlesque is very competitive but it’s not. Other performers like to share, give critiques and grow together. I stay in touch with a group in Dublin who are organizing the Dublin Burlesque Festival and have arranged for a few dancers to perform in Belfast at the Tease -O-Rama.

Your performance style contains a surprise element of comedy, how do audiences react to this?

When I started I looked up what the word ‘burlesque’ meant. It began in the Victorian times and the word means satire. Women at the time used this form of art to make fun of the things that were going on. That’s what I got from it; when my clothes come off that should be the punch line.  Even though I’m naked, it’s funny. It’s sometimes difficult but that’s the challenge. People always say humour is sexy. For me it’s just like a defense mechanism. When I get on the stage and I’m nervous the first thing I think of is ‘how can I make them laugh?’ I think it tricks the audience a little bit. People who haven’t been to a burlesque show before are going to expect something beautiful and glamorous. When you come out and do something hilarious it takes them a while because they don’t know you can laugh. I think it makes for a good atmosphere.

When composing your routines, where or who do you look for inspiration?

It usually comes from music. The songs are mostly modern and I like the idea that burlesque should be satire of the times. I’ll be at home listening to a song then an idea will pop into my head.  I’d then research it, look up costumes (referring back to vintage from all eras and even artists). Occasionally I’d find a hat in work and that would spark a whole routine. From just one article of clothing you can create a ton of ideas.

What would be your dream costume, what’s on your wish list?

My weakness is anything girly like sequins and feathers. I’ve been collecting a lot of ostrich feathers and they’re waiting at home ready to be made into a costume. They’re bright pink and remind me of vintage follies costumes. I think I would die if I saw one in real life. I also love the creepy cabaret side of burlesque. The possibilities are endless, if I wanted to dress like a strawberry I could make a costume and perform it. I think that’s why burlesque is still going strong and that’s what inspires me: never-ending ideas.

What can we expect on the evening?

There will be three performers on the night offering a wide spectrum of burlesque, from cheesecake, comedy and some sexy/almost fetish styles. I wanted to show people a mixture and for future shows I hope to include specific themes alongside crazier performers. This is just the start….

Belfast Tease-O-Rama takes place on Sat 30th November at the Black Box. Information and tickets at their website. Illustration by Stephen Maurice Graham.

Purple Paisley Haze

Modern-Day Inspiration 

This Silk Dress by Isabel Marant for SS13

Vintage Inspiration

This 1970s Cotton Paisley Maxi-Dress - Available at The Rusty Zip size S £20

Peony Lim wearing Isabel Marant

 

Create her look by adding these Pearl Hair Pins from Asos - £10

If you want to add just a touch of print try this Paisley Vintage Scarf  from The Rusty Zip - £3

My own Paisley Top from Sparkle & Fade

Paisley Summer Dress by Chelsea Girl - Available at The Rusty Zip size 14 £15

Close-ups of two Vintage Blouses - Available at The Rusty Zip £10 each

Break away from your inner wallflower with this swinging 60s Psychedelic Mini-Dress - 

Soon to be available at The Rusty Zip

Frankie's Idea - 23rd July 1971

                                                                         

 Frankie says 'Heeeeyyyyy'

Thanks to my friend Kayleigh for finding this fun gem in work today, it oozes retro style! The article is about a suave young fashion designer who worked at the infamous nightclub Tiffany's. It's taken from the Daily Express 23rd of July 1971 and is written by Pam Harley-

Women's fashions featuring all that's frilly and feminine, and men's fashions featuring flamboyant, but not feminine clothes is the new trend a 21 year old Wakefield fashion designer would like to see followed in the near future.

The young designer is Frankie Johnson, a Nigerian, who lives at 90 Pinderfields Road. He is employed as a photographer, display artist and disc-jockey at Tiffany's, Southgate, Wakefield. 

As a former pupil at Wakefield Technical and Art College, where he did a three-year course in designing, Frankie feels that English fashions for men and women are at a virtual standstill.

For Himself 

Nevertheless, he isn't too worried about this state of affairs because in his spare time he designs clothes for himself and his friends. Pictured here is one of his recent designs for himself. It is a black and white small check suit in lightweight wool to be worn as everyday gear. The jacket has two large patch pockets and a top pocket, fish-mouth cuffs and Spanish braiding around the collar and down to the front. The trousers are in the French style, with narrow hips and wide, unflared bottoms.

£45 Suit

The suit was made to Frankie's specifications by a firm of Southgate tailors. The suit cost him around £45, but he told me that it could have been a lot cheaper had he not been so choosy about materials. The shirt he is wearing with the suit is also one of his designs. Made up by a Wakefield girl, it is in white and mauve spotted cotton. It is round-collared and has long, tight cuffs, giving a slight puff to the sleeves.

Bridal Outfit

Frankie's latest creations are two bridal outfits for two friends. For the bride, he has designed a full-length gown in white crepe cut on Tudor lines with a hood. His sketches show a delicately embroidered bodice and leg-o-mutton sleeves. For the bridegroom, he has designed a brown-grey suit in lightweight wool with braiding around the collar, wide lapels and imitation belts on the front of the jacket. The trousers are in the French style. 

With a careful eye for detail, he has drawn dozens of sketches for men's and women's fashions. If we adopted some of his colourful and stylish creations there would certainly be a lot of snappy dressers brightening up our cities and towns. 

Zig A Zig Ah

 

This fab zigzag sequined Louise Gray for Topshop dress arrived into The Rusty Zip this week! It's around size 10-12 and brand new with the label still attached. Priced at only £60 it has a small hole on the front that can easily be mended. Original price £200 so this is a fantastic bargain!

I am also loving this silk pale pink embellished vintage frock. Perfect for Spring parties the detailing is incredible with pearl seed beads and shimmering sequins. It is also currently in The Rusty Zip priced at £45 and is also size 10-12.

Conway Mill Textile Tour - An Introduction to Linenopolis

Looking for something a bit different to do around Belfast? Then check out this insightful textile tour of Conway Mill in West Belfast! 

Tour guide and vintage aficionado Rosie Moore first became interested in the history of the Conway Mill when she stumbled upon some early 1800s Gaelic birth certificates of the mill workers in the building's attic. Immersing herself in research she discovered some interesting facts about the linen industry and what it was like to live the life of a mill worker in and out of the workplace.

We started the tour outside at the mill's monolith where Rosie explained how the people of Belfast contributed to the making of the linen industry so famous throughout the world that Belfast was once known as Linenopolis. In 1842 the first part of the mill was built and was called Kennedy's Mill at at Millvale. In 1865 it amalgamated with the Falls Flax Spinning Company and that was its name until it closed down. Then between 1900 and 1910 the second mill was built to replace the weaving factory. This is why two different styles are seen (above.) Victorian bricks for the old building and Edwardian tiles for the new.

Without giving too much away about the tour what stayed in my head afterwards was the harsh working conditions within the main wet spinning room. Workers had to spin flax with bare feet, ankle-deep in water with chemicals and cockroaches, which caused a lot of health problems. The machinery was so loud that they learned to lip read and make up their own sign language. Singing was a way to keep spirits up to and from the workplace! The lives of the workers were tough but after reading accounts and stories told by the workers Rosie explains 'I was touched and warmed by their spirit and joy of life, despite their hardships. There was camaraderie, friendship, determination, and believe it or not, a great deal of fun and mischief, by way of pranks, celebrations and socializing.'

I really enjoyed the tour overall I found it to be a fascinating topic. Rosie's warmth, knowledge and charming stories throughout made it a truly valuable visit.

The tour is on every Friday at 11am, 12pm, 2pm and 3pm. It costs £6 per person and lasts 45 minutes. For more info check Rosie's web page - http://www.studio-nineteen.com/textile-tours.html

P.S - The Mill courtyard holds a 'People's Variety Market every Saturday between 10am-3pm. Stallholders include arts and crafts, vegetables, baked goods, meats, books, jewellery, homewares, handmade soaps, books etc. At the minute there are around 30 stall holders (mostly regulars) but people can put their name down for a stall and will be given a chance to take part as soon as possible. The cost per stall is £12 and the person to contact regarding renting a stall is Peter. The mill number is 02890 249646.

The Rusty Zip End Of Summer Fashion Show @ The Retro Show 2012

                      

 

Clothing - The Rusty Zip 

MUA - Miss Ready 2 Wear

Hair - Vintage Rocks 

For this year's Rusty Zip fashion show in the Baby Grand for Pretty N' Pink we included clothing throughout the decades from the 1950s through to the 80s.

A bright and colourful boardwalk theme featuring a beautiful emerald green 50s prom dress accompanied by a dapper boater hat gent kick-started the event! Rockabilly pin-up chic rocked the floor in the form of an Elvis record bag which was then followed by soft gardenia florals to set an eclectic tone for the rest of the show. A cutesy mod dress and evening glamour featuring a stunning fuschia pink sequined dress ruled the 60s section. 

Inspired by bohemian psychedelia and Studio 54 (top pics) playful prints were present in swirls, rainbow stripes and Missoni style zig zags. The top left maxi-dress would be lovely for layering in Autumn! As you can see in the finale pic formal wear, 80s metallic detailing, leather (and not forgetting the MJ t-shirt) completed our show. All in all it went down well...phew! Big thanks to everyone who helped out! x

Jacob Street Re-Launch Party - 05/04/12

Last month, to celebrate the re-launch of Jacob Street's new store on the Lisburn road (beside Bedeck) a wonderful party was thrown! Everyone was welcomed with nibbles and champagne which accompanied beautiful vintage clothing and furniture, not forgetting fine jewellery. I wanted to buy everything! This gorgeous shop is really worth a visit!!

Global Journey

Model: Naoimh Campbell

Stylist: Maureen Collins

Clothing and Furniture : Jacob Street at Bedeck

East meets West in this eclectic 'Global Journey' shoot which explores world-fusion design carried out through batik prints and bold patterns, with a dash of oriental silk. I concentrated on warmer tones throughout the story and loved the broad range of influences to experiment with! Big thanks to Naoimh for letting me traipse her through nettles and weeds that day to get to the derelict shed!